I started by clecoing the spar caps together without the web. Then I used the benchtop sander to even up the edges and make the pieces look like they belong together. Not a huge deal, but when I take the wings off, I want it to look like a proper piece.
I was happy with the results. FYI, "RB" means right bottom spar.
Next I drilled the holes for the tie down nutplate. Tony Bingelis says to do this by drilling the bolt hole first, then thread the bolt on, and us it to hold the nutplate steady while you drill the rivet holes. Not many pictures of the process, but it worked like a charm. An eye hook will be added under the wing using this nutplate so I can tie the airplane down when parking.
Next I drilled the 3/4" hole in the left spar web for the pitot static tubes (these tubes go to the instruments to measure airspeed, altitude, vertical speed, etc. If you want to learn more about these instruments, try this link.).
Next, I finished all of the pieces I have made to date by sanding, deburring, and cleaning off any dust and dirt. Then I set up some plastic and laid all of the parts out. The cardboard piece was used to make a key of sorts to help me remember what each part was. It worked really well.
I primed my parts with this primer (picture below). A lot of the feedback on Amazon is from guys that are building airplanes. I heard good reviews elsewhere too. So I decided to use it. Word of warning: this stuff is supposedly nasty, so use respirators and gloves. You might want to have some kids first too (seriously, read the label on the back!).
Painted parts ready to assemble. I like the gray. Makes me feel like I'm working on an F-16...okay, maybe not.
Then I started setting rivets. I tried on a practice piece with not a lot of luck, but that was because I was using a rivet that was too long for the piece. I mustered up the courage to set some actual rivets, and I am happy with the results. Haven't had to drill one out yet!
Here is a really quick video of me setting one rivet in the center spar. I used 7 hits here, but later found 4-5 to be fine with the right pressure. You just have to get a feel for it, but hopefully this gives you an idea of how hard to hit it.
The resulting rivet. Let me know in the comments if you want more detail on this.
Here is a shot of the progress on the right spar with the completed center spar in the back. It is not a difficult process. It just takes time. So put a TV or radio in your shop.
I stopped after completing the top and bottom portion of the spar that has two rows of rivets (first 30"). I'm tired, thirsty, and the pool likes awfully nice after a day in a Florida garage with no A/C!
SIDE NOTE: Check out Brandon's method for riveting. This would be a much more expensive way to go, but the rivets would all be set the same and it would be a lot faster!
Nice job! Keep up the good work. I bought my spars from Greg Westberry. Tried to rivet but messed it up on my spars after doing all the other work to get to the point to start by riveting. Looks like you have the knack! Best of luck with your build.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the encouragement. I can see how that would happen. Hope you keep at it!
DeleteGreat Blog. Putting together my spars right now.
ReplyDeleteWhere did you find the tie-down nutplates?
Thanks! I'm pretty sure I bought them from Aircraft Spruce. I would hold off drilling the holes for the tiedown until you drill the holes to attach the lower wing skin to the spar. I ended up with two rivet holes right next to each other. Just looks bad in my opinion.
DeleteI checked, and confirmed that I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce. They were backordered and had to ship separate at the time (Spring 2016). I just checked, and I do not see them there now.
DeletePart #: AN366F-524A